“Roof of Europe"

Mont Blanc 4810m

“Roof of Europe”

5 Routes to the Summit

15^th to 20^th July 2013 

No matter how fit you are it is essential to acclimatise to the altitude.  The ascent of Mont Blanc is a long climb at high altitude that should not be undertaken lightly.  The high mountains are an “unforgiving” place and there is no such thing as zero risk.  It is important to keep in mind that when you have reached the top (summit) (if you are lucky enough to do so as weather conditions can change so quickly) you have only done around half the route  - you then have to get down and the decent can feel extremely long when your body is already tired from the climb.  Thus a vigorous training agenda before the climb is essential.  Having the right gear (and being comfortable in it), medicine and food, is essential.  Lastly and most important is that you have an experienced mountain guide – here we have the very best in Tim Blakemore - IFMGA Mountain Guide.

 We are acclimatising on Grand Paradiso in Italy before attempting the climb.  Gran Paradiso (4,061m 13,323ft) in Italy and Mont Blanc (4,810m 15,782ft and highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe) in France.

The routes on Mont Blanc:

• The Gouter – ordinary route.  From a technical mountaineering point of view it is the least difficult route.  Most people reach the top on this route.
• The Three Monts: Mont Blanc traverse
• The Grands Mulets Route: taken by 1^st ascenionists in 1786
• The Pope: The Italian ordinary route, hidden and wild
• The Miage Bionnassay: The Royal Traverse

Weather conditions

The best time to climb the mountain is between June and September.  Mont Blanc has its very own weather system and it is often extremely cold even when it is +30% in the lower valleys – it might be -20%C at the top of Mont Blanc (wind + low temperatures thus the wind-chill factor).  Thus essential to be well equipped.

Freeze – thaw actions in a 24 hour period turns the summit snowfields into sheets of ice making it much harder to get a good grip with your crampons.  The movement of the glaciers create crevasses and thus complicated to cross.

The mountain can be covered in cloud when other mountains in the area are clear and this is known as “the donkey”.  Even on good weather days a strong northerly wind (say 70mph+) can prevent access to the summit ridges.  The wind has a mechanical (upsetting balance) and it enhances the sensation of coldness.  The wind will not affect all of the routes in the same way and here again the experience of your guide is essential.  (www.meto.fr )

Pope route

A route for the more adventurous climber up the long (both in terms of height gain and distance) impressive south-west face.  It is described as “hidden and wild” and is away from the maddening crowds.  There is complex glacial terrain and the route is highly crevassed over the Miage and Dome glaciers.  There is an overnight stay at the Gonella Hut at 3071m, thus perhaps limiting the effects of altitude sickness.

• Day 1  Start at 1700m at Val Veny.  5 hours  +1371m
• Day 2  13 hours  +1739m (the route down has to be decided upon).

It is recommended to leave early (while dark) to climb at a comfortable pace and to avail yourself of good snow conditions.  We are hoping for good weather conditions in July!!

June 2013